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亲爱的绿维特利纳
文 Debra Meiburg MW
黛布拉·麦格（Debra Meiburg MW）定居在香港的美国人,葡萄酒大师（Master ofWine）,葡萄酒专栏作家,电视人,葡萄酒讲师.本刊顾问.
绿维特利纳年轻时喝起来与风格强劲的雷司令非常相像,但陈年过后会发生惊人的变化,变得与勃艮第白葡萄酒极为相似,以至于顶级葡萄酒专家盲品的时候常常栽在它手里.
In youth, Gru Vee resembles a powerful,incisive Riesling, but with age can besurprisingly similar to a white Burgundyand has fooled top exper ts in blindtastings.
绿维特利纳（Gruner Veltliner）需要一个艺名.这个葡萄品种稀有难找,也难发音,而且明明可以酿制出活泼的白葡萄酒,却硬是起了一个笨拙的名字.当它走出奥地利祖国的国门,确实也没什么知名度.绿维特利纳酿制而成的白葡萄酒是世上最激动人心的葡萄酒之一,它最近频频出现在巴黎、伦敦和纽约的葡萄酒单上.这三个国际化大城市的侍酒师们,更习惯把它称为Grüner, Gru Vee, G.V. 或者Groovy.
绿维特利纳这个名字首次出现,是在1855年奥地利的葡萄栽种技术文献作品里,但直到20世纪30年代,这个葡萄品种才流行起来.在此期间,酒农们一直忙着学习这个品种名字的正确发音.时至今日,绿维特利纳已经成为奥地利种植最为广泛的葡萄品种.但在世界其他产区则难觅其踪,只在新西兰有少量的试验性种植.
绿维特利纳酿制出的葡萄酒风格多变,有时充满了浓郁的柑橘类和热带水果香气,有时又散发出扁豆（Lentil）和芹菜籽（Celery）气息.但它最为标志性的特征,要数带有新鲜研磨白胡椒气味的余味.年轻的时候,绿维特利纳喝起来与风格强劲、酸度明显的雷司令非常相像,但陈年过后会发生惊人的变化,变得与勃艮第白葡萄酒极为相似,以至于顶级葡萄酒专家盲品的时候常常栽在它手里.
最好的绿维特利纳葡萄被种植在奥地利的瓦豪(Wachau)产区.当地冬季寒冷刺骨的高山气候十分著名,但令人称奇的是,夏季却出乎意料地温暖,所以生产出的葡萄可以酿制出比其北邻德国风格更加强劲的葡萄酒.瓦豪产区的酒农是一个头脑清醒的群体.在他们手里,不管是雷司令还是绿维特利纳,都能酿成世界上最优质的白葡萄酒,不过,在这个产区的葡萄园劳作是一件痛并快乐着的事情,因为葡萄藤全被种植在多瑙河边陡峭得不可思议的山坡上.
瓦豪产区最好的干白葡萄酒分为3个等级.酒体最轻的是Steinfeder,它与羽毛状的野生杂草同名,年轻时饮用为佳.质量更上乘的一个等级是Federspiel（最为常见）,酿成的葡萄酒酒精度在10.5%-12%之间,名字含义是把猎鹰吸引回驯兽者身边的“诱饵”.质量最佳的是Smaragd（晚收、浓烈,但不甜的葡萄酒）,这个迷人的名字灵感来源于在葡萄园里晒太阳的翡翠绿蜥蜴.
Smaragd葡萄酒的酒精度通常在12.5%-14%之间,复杂、成熟、经得起长时间陈放,它们来自瓦豪产区最好的葡萄园（如Hirtzberger, J?ger, Knoll, F.X. Pichler 和Prager）.其实附近的Kamptal产区也生产优雅、顶级的葡萄酒,魅力无穷的布德梅尔酒庄（WilliBründlmayer）正坐落其中.另外,Hirsch生产的葡萄酒质量也是极好的.
Gruner Veltliner needs a stage name. Difficult to find, let alone pronounce, this grapevariety is saddled with an unwieldly name for a racy white wine. Gruner Veltliner (pronouncedGreener Felt-leaner) is one of the most exciting white wines in the world, but it is relativelyunknown outside its Austrian homeland. Lately it has been espied on fine wine lists in Paris,London and New York, where sommeliers refer to the grape as Gruner, Gru Vee, G.V. or Groovy.
The name Gruner Veltliner first appeared in Austrian viticultural literature as early as1855 but the variety did not become common until the 1930’s. In the interim, growers werepreoccupied with learning how to pronounce it. Today Gruner Veltliner is the most widelyplanted grape in Austria. And while there is some experimental planting in New Zealand, verylittle is grown elsewhere.
Gruner is a versatile wine whose profile can range from vibrantcitrus and tropical fruit to quiet lentil and celery flors, but itstrademark is a distinctive finish of freshly ground white pepper. Inyouth, Gru Vee resembles a powerful, incisive Riesling, but with agecan be surprisingly similar to a white Burgundy and has fooled topexperts in blind tastings.
The finest Gruner Veltliner is produced in the Wachau(pronounced Vagh-how) region of central Austria. Thoughknown for its chilly alpine winters, Austria is astonishingly warmin summer, which results in wines far more robust than those ofits northern German neighbors. Wachau producers are a qualityconscious bunch, producing some of the finest white wine inthe world, whether Riesling or Gruner Veltliner. Tending Wachauvineyards is a painstaking labour of love as the vines are planted onthe impossibly steep slopes lining the Danube river.
The finest dry white wines from the Wachau are classified into three categories. Thelightest styles are called Steinfeder, which is the name of a feathery wild weed, and are bestconsumed while young. The next step up in quality level is called Federspiel, which has alcohollevels of 10.5% to 12%. Federspiel is named after a lure used in falconry to attract hawksback to the handler. The finest quality wines from the Wachau are in a class called Smaragd(pronounced Shmar-rahgd), charmingly named after the little emerald-green lizards that sunthemselves in the vineyards. Smaragd wines range in 12.5%-14% alcohol. Smaragd-classedwines are from the Wachau region’s finest vineyard sites and are ripe, complex wines capableof lengthy aging. Top growers include Hirtzberger, J?ger, Knoll, F.X. Pichler and Prager. Thenearby Kamptal region also produces elegant, top-class wines with charming Willi Bründlmayeramongst the finest of the producers. Hirsch is also excellent quality
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